Big thanks to Bruce Lancaster for the link to "Ford Garage"!! I actually found out that my Slant Windshield Model A was NOT made by the Murray Company today, but by the Briggs Mfg. Co.! This was the clue, the only clue left that hadn't been chopped up and/or chopped out of the car!
Anything you need to know about differences in 1928 to 1934 Model A, B, AA, or BB body style, as well as some other information can be found at the "Ford Garage". The website was put together by Vance Falter. Great stuff!
Thanks Bruce and thanks to Vance for making it happen!
FORD GARAGE
Tuesday, March 31, 2009
Monday, March 30, 2009
Todd
Secret spy shot of Todd, from Todd's Cycle, messin' around on Commerce Lane. HAHA!
Check out their blog, also --> Todd's Thoughts
Check out their blog, also --> Todd's Thoughts
Friday, March 27, 2009
Crafty B's new products!
Kirk is at it again! Some new products from Crafty B on out! Anyone like traditional gauge panels? He's got plenty to choose from and if you don't see exactly what you need, drop him a line and he just might be able to make what you need.
In addition to the gauge panels, he's offering some other new products like knock-off spinners for your early V8 Ford spokes, cool radiator cap covers and even some cast front control arm drops for your split wish bones or hair pin radius rods! Cool stuff!
Check out Crafty B for details and prices of Kirk's new stuff!
In addition to the gauge panels, he's offering some other new products like knock-off spinners for your early V8 Ford spokes, cool radiator cap covers and even some cast front control arm drops for your split wish bones or hair pin radius rods! Cool stuff!
Check out Crafty B for details and prices of Kirk's new stuff!
Long awaited drip rails
Last weekend I went to town and made some drip rails for the Murray. Since there's nothing right off the shelf that will work, I had to make something from scratch. After a conversation I had with Jimmy White about one of the Model A coupes they just built, he clued me in on what they did for drip rails. So I took his tips and applied it to my application.
I simply took some 5/8", thin-walled square tubing and got the shape that I needed for the body lines and gutter pad. Clamped it in place, stared for awhile and made adjustments until it sat just right. Then I tacked everything in place to make sure it was going to sit right after some heat was applied. Then I fully welded between the tacks until I had a complete weld from front to back, skipping around to avoid too much heat in one area.
I fully welded the gutter so no moisture could come between the body and the gutter and rust out between the cracks. Ford originally just spot welded them on.
After the welds were complete, I smoothed them out so they would blend with the body.
Once the welds were smoothed, I cut the middle flat part of the tubing out but left the bends. Then I filed away until everything was smooth and the leading edge had a nice shape to it that complimented the visor panel lines.
The drip rails are not done though. They're too boxy looking. I have plans to roll the edge to give them a nicer looking shape and get rid of the boxyness.
There is still a ton of work to do on the roof. Little more bumping and smoothing and some pinholes here and there where all the splice and sectioning welds are and I should be done with that part of the body.
I simply took some 5/8", thin-walled square tubing and got the shape that I needed for the body lines and gutter pad. Clamped it in place, stared for awhile and made adjustments until it sat just right. Then I tacked everything in place to make sure it was going to sit right after some heat was applied. Then I fully welded between the tacks until I had a complete weld from front to back, skipping around to avoid too much heat in one area.
I fully welded the gutter so no moisture could come between the body and the gutter and rust out between the cracks. Ford originally just spot welded them on.
After the welds were complete, I smoothed them out so they would blend with the body.
Once the welds were smoothed, I cut the middle flat part of the tubing out but left the bends. Then I filed away until everything was smooth and the leading edge had a nice shape to it that complimented the visor panel lines.
The drip rails are not done though. They're too boxy looking. I have plans to roll the edge to give them a nicer looking shape and get rid of the boxyness.
There is still a ton of work to do on the roof. Little more bumping and smoothing and some pinholes here and there where all the splice and sectioning welds are and I should be done with that part of the body.
Tuesday, March 24, 2009
Cool Video on the birth of the 1949 Ford and the concept car
Just under 13 minutes. Worth it! Pretty cool!
Monday, March 23, 2009
Need a good bench dolly?
Thursday, March 19, 2009
10.5:1
Vintage racing, anyone?
Tuesday, March 17, 2009
Monday, March 16, 2009
When you need to get wired... Check these guys!
I have a huge love-hate thing going on with wiring! Wiring a car can be the biggest pain in the rear, but as a hobbiest I enjoy tinkering. It's still one of those things I don't trust myself with, though. I couldn't imagine trying to figure out every circuit for a car from scratch... lights, gauges, directionals (if you use that kind of stuff), charging circuits, etc.. If you're like me, you don't even want to go down that path (even though the DIYer says "you can do it").
There is an alternative! Buy a wiring harness that's mapped out and ready to go. "Organized wiring" is nothing new to the aftermarket hot rod scene, but often the big players, in that catagory, are just too expensive for what is basically a bunch of wires and a fuse panel that someone has organized, color coded and labeled. I've used these "name brand" panels and I have to tell you, it made life easy, but the cost almost made me want to figure it out on my own.
There's a new player! Rebel Wire, of Olney, Illinois. They have simplified kits that cover just about every application and are very affordable for the do-it-yourselfer. If you don't see what you need through them, maybe you're just building your hot rod or kustom too complicated.
Rebel's kits range in price from $132 to $218 and have options of 8 to 20 fusable circuits. They also provide several other additional options like accesories to make your gauge hook up easier as well as a pile of other connectors and relays that you might need for custom applications.
Check out Rebel Wiring.
9+3 harness. $150!
There is an alternative! Buy a wiring harness that's mapped out and ready to go. "Organized wiring" is nothing new to the aftermarket hot rod scene, but often the big players, in that catagory, are just too expensive for what is basically a bunch of wires and a fuse panel that someone has organized, color coded and labeled. I've used these "name brand" panels and I have to tell you, it made life easy, but the cost almost made me want to figure it out on my own.
There's a new player! Rebel Wire, of Olney, Illinois. They have simplified kits that cover just about every application and are very affordable for the do-it-yourselfer. If you don't see what you need through them, maybe you're just building your hot rod or kustom too complicated.
Rebel's kits range in price from $132 to $218 and have options of 8 to 20 fusable circuits. They also provide several other additional options like accesories to make your gauge hook up easier as well as a pile of other connectors and relays that you might need for custom applications.
Check out Rebel Wiring.
9+3 harness. $150!
Thanks Crafty B!
Got a nice surprise in the mail on Saturday! Crafty B is making some KILLER gas caps! I had to check them out for myself. The quality was everything I expected and MORE! They look great and now I can't wait to get started on my gas tank!
You've probably seen me mention Crafty B before, but if you're just joining us, take a gander over to his site and check it out.
CRAFTY B
You've probably seen me mention Crafty B before, but if you're just joining us, take a gander over to his site and check it out.
CRAFTY B
Friday, March 13, 2009
My new obsession...
Wednesday, March 11, 2009
Brawny and the gang
Cool picture takin' by the Michael van der Lee (General wheels)
Left to right... Maurice van den Tillaard (FD Photo), Brandon Holstein (Brawny Built) Mark Kawakami (Joyrides Art company) and myself...
what a bunch of photo dorks!
Left to right... Maurice van den Tillaard (FD Photo), Brandon Holstein (Brawny Built) Mark Kawakami (Joyrides Art company) and myself...
what a bunch of photo dorks!
Tuesday, March 10, 2009
Work Continues
Up to my earlobes in body work still! Metal bumping, dolly work, etc... The hammers/slapper, dollys and the shrinking disk and I have a very tight relationship right now! Not to mention the use of files and a dozen other types of abrasives.
Right now I'm moving body lines around, sectioned the quarter windows and reshaped them and once the lumps, bumps, and pinholes are gone, I'll make up a new set of drip rails. Then I just have to do... well... EVERYTHING ELSE! **SIGH**
Ross is still working on the pistons, but pretty much everything else is lined up for the Hemi build. Once the pistons are done the machinist can finish off the bores and balance my rotating assembly. Then it's building time!
OH! Someone buy my +0.040" over 392 pistons! PLEASE! Shoot me an email if you're interested. I'll make you a deal!
Right now I'm moving body lines around, sectioned the quarter windows and reshaped them and once the lumps, bumps, and pinholes are gone, I'll make up a new set of drip rails. Then I just have to do... well... EVERYTHING ELSE! **SIGH**
Ross is still working on the pistons, but pretty much everything else is lined up for the Hemi build. Once the pistons are done the machinist can finish off the bores and balance my rotating assembly. Then it's building time!
OH! Someone buy my +0.040" over 392 pistons! PLEASE! Shoot me an email if you're interested. I'll make you a deal!